Woollen vs Worsted: Why Yarn Structure Matters (and How to Choose the Right Prep)

When it comes to choosing or spinning yarn, one of the most fundamental—but often overlooked—decisions is whether the yarn is woollen or worsted spun. While both start from the same raw fibre, the way they're prepared and spun makes a world of difference in how they feel, look, and behave in your finished project.

We know many of our customers love diving into the details of their craft—and this is one of those topics that can really unlock a deeper understanding of fibre. Whether you're spinning your own yarn or simply curious about the skeins in your stash, learning the difference between woollen and worsted can help you make more intentional choices.

What’s the difference between woollen and worsted?

Woollen and worsted yarns might look similar at a glance, but they behave very differently. Woollen-spun yarns are made from fibres that have been carded — a process that jumbles the fibres in lots of different directions. This creates a soft, lofty yarn that traps air beautifully, making it warm and insulating. Woollen yarns tend to feel light and bouncy, with a gentle halo. They're perfect for projects where you want softness and warmth without too much weight, like hats, scarves, and cosy jumpers.

Worsted-spun yarns, on the other hand, are made from fibres that are both combed and aligned before spinning. This removes shorter fibres and makes all the fibres lie in the same direction. The result is a smooth, strong, and dense yarn with excellent stitch definition and durability. Worsted yarns are ideal for things like socks, shawls, weaving warps and garments where you want crisp detail or a bit more drape and polish.

Here is a quick comparison:

Worsted in Relation to Yarn Weight

Let’s quickly go over worsted spun and worsted weight. Across different countries, yarn terminology and classifications can vary, and the word worsted is one of those terms that gets used in multiple ways — which can be a little confusing.

Before we go further, here’s the key distinction:

• Worsted spun describes how the fibre is processed (combed and aligned before spinning).
• Worsted weight refers to the thickness of the yarn — it’s a yarn weight category (medium thickness, often around 10–12 ply in Australia).

So yes — you can absolutely have a woollen-spun yarn that’s worsted weight!

It’s a bit of a brain-bender, but once you know the difference, you’ll be able to choose your yarns with much more confidence.

Weaving-Specific Notes on Woollen vs Worsted Yarns:

Worsted Yarns for Weaving:

• Great for warp threads due to strength and low pilling.
• Create smooth, crisp fabrics with a defined structure—ideal for things like table runners, tailored garments, and furnishings
• Produce less fuzz on the loom, so they’re easier on heddles and reeds.

Woollen Yarns for Weaving:

• Best used in the weft unless they're reinforced (some fine weavers use them in warp, but it depends on the yarn’s strength).
• Result in soft, lofty, warm fabrics with a lovely halo—great for wraps, scarves, blankets.
• Their texture can add visual richness to plain weave or tapestry.

A Note on Sett:

• Worsted yarns can usually handle a tighter sett, producing sleek, dense fabrics.
• Woollen yarns may need a looser sett to maintain loft and avoid fulling too tightly.

FIBRE PREPARATION: CARDING VS COMBING

Before fibres can be spun into yarn, they need to be prepared — and the method you use makes a big difference in the final feel, look, and performance of the yarn.

Carding:

Fluffy and Airy Carding is a process that brushes fibres in lots of different directions, creating a light, airy web of fibre full of tiny air pockets. It doesn’t align the fibres perfectly — and that’s exactly what gives woollen yarn its warm and lofty nature.

You can card fibre by hand using hand carders, blending board or on a drum carder for faster and larger-scale prep. The result is a rolag (when using hand carders) or a batt (from a drum carder) — both perfect for long draw spinning and cosy, fuzzy yarns.

Tools for carding:
Hand carders – great for small batches and blending
Blending Board – perfect for blending fibres on a larger scale than hand carders but more portable than a drum carder
Drum carder – ideal for preparing larger volumes or colour-blended batts

Combing:

Smooth and Strong Combing takes fibre preparation a step further. It removes shorter fibres and aligns the long ones perfectly parallel to each other, producing a smooth, dense preparation ideal for worsted spinning. This results in yarn that’s strong, sleek, and has fantastic stitch definition. Combing can be done with wool combs, which look a bit scary, but are very effective! The output is usually drawn off into a long, sausage-like bundle called a top. This is also how commercial tops are made, but on a larger scale.

Tools for combing:

Wool combs – for precise fibre separation and alignment
Hackles – used to blend or dizz fibre into long top preparations

Choosing Between Carding and Combing

The way you prepare your fibre shapes everything that comes after — from how your yarn behaves, to how your finished piece feels and wears. Here's a gentle breakdown to help you decide which prep method suits your project.

Choose carding (woollen prep) when you want:

• A light, lofty, warm yarn
• A more rustic or cosy texture
• To spin with long draw technique
• To knit hats, mitts, scarves, or jumpers where warmth is more important than stitch clarity
• To blend colours or fibres easily

Carded fibre creates yarns that trap air, making them excellent insulators. They’re perfect for softer projects where comfort and warmth matter more than durability.

Choose combing (worsted prep) when you want:

• A strong, smooth, lustrous yarn
• Great stitch definition for lace or cables
• A yarn that will wear well in socks, shawls, or weaving warps
• A neat, controlled fibre preparation for short forward draw
• Yarn with a bit more drape and polish

Combed top produces yarns that are sleek and lustrous, ideal for projects that demand strength, precision, and structure.

HOW SPINNING TECHNIQUE CAN HELP YOU CREATE WOOLLEN AND WORSTED YARNS – LONG DRAW VS FORWARD DRAW

How you draft fibre while spinning affects the texture, strength, and character of your yarn — even when using the same fibre prep.

Long Draw - Used with carded rolags or batts, this technique:

• Involves pulling the fibre out with one hand while the other controls twist at a distance
• Traps more air between fibres
• Produces light, fluffy, woollen-spun yarns
• Often feels “faster” and more flowing once mastered
• Woollen drafting is when the twist never enters the drafting zone

Imagine drawing out soft tufts of fibre like stretching clouds — the twist finds its way in naturally, without much tension.

Short Forward Draw - Used with combed top, this method:

• Involves a controlled pinch-pull-smooth motion, just forward of the drafting zone
• Aligns fibres tightly
• Produces smooth, firm worsted-spun yarns
• Worsted drafting is when the twist does go into the drafting zone while you are drafting

Picture pinching a narrow zone of fibre, drawing it out smoothly, and smoothing it with your fingers to create a sleek, compact thread. Some spinners also use variations like short backward draw, point-of-twist, or semi-worsted styles to blend properties — it’s all about your hands, your fibre, and your goals.

To bend our minds a bit further, there are also semi-worsted yarns and semi-woollen yarns, and many spinners and knitters use a combination. These yarns blend the characteristics of the two. For example, a semi-worsted yarn can be created by carding and then spinning with a worsted-style draw, or vice versa.

• A true woollen yarn is made from carded fibre and spun with a woollen draw (like long draw). The fibres are jumbled and airy, resulting in a yarn that is soft, warm, lofty, and elastic—ideal for items needing insulation and lightness.
• A true worsted yarn is made from combed fibre and spun with a worsted draw (short forward or backward draw). The fibres are aligned and smooth, producing a dense, strong, and lustrous yarn that’s great for stitch definition and drape.
• A semi-woollen yarn usually starts with combed fibre but is spun with a woollen draw. It carries some of the softness and bounce of a woollen yarn, but with more strength and a touch of smoothness.
• A semi-worsted yarn often uses carded fibre but is spun with a worsted draw. This gives the yarn more structure and strength than a woollen yarn, but it retains a bit of loft and softness.

For Knitters & Weavers: How to Choose the Right Yarn
(Even if You’re Not a Spinner)

Even if you don’t spin, understanding how a yarn is prepared and spun can help you make more informed choices—especially when matching yarns to specific projects. The way a yarn is spun affects its bounce, softness, stitch definition, and durability.

Here is something that might help:

Tactile Clues When Shopping

If you don’t see the spin type listed, you can still get a feel for it:

Woollen-style yarns:

• Fluffy surface
• Feels light for its size
• Usually has more yardage per weight
• More matte texture
• Stitches may look more blended

Worsted-style yarns:

• Smooth and firm
• Feels dense and sleek
• Usually less yardage per weight
• Crisp, defined stitches
• Sometimes slightly shiny

Ask or Check for:

• Does the label say woollen or worsted spun?
• How does it feel—light and airy, or sleek and tight?
• Is it recommended for socks, shawls, or garments? (This often hints at the yarn's structure.)

Bonus Tip:

Many modern yarns fall somewhere in between. You might see terms like semi-worsted or semi-woollen—these refer to blends of spinning techniques. There’s no strict line between them, and that flexibility allows you to experiment and discover what works best for you.

WRAPPING IT ALL UP: 
CHOOSING THE RIGHT YARN FOR YOUR CRAFT

Understanding the difference between woollen and worsted yarns isn’t just for spinners—it's a game-changer for anyone working with fibre. From the loft and bounce of a hand-carded woollen yarn to the smooth strength of a combed worsted preparation, the way a fibre is prepared and spun deeply influences how it behaves in your hands, on your needles, or at your loom.

Whether you’re spinning from scratch or buying yarn for a project, knowing the characteristics of each type can help you match your materials to your goals. Want something airy and warm for a winter hat? A woollen-spun yarn might be your best friend. After clean stitch definition or a hardwearing sock yarn? Worsteds are your go-to.

We love empowering makers with the knowledge (and tools!) to explore fibre on their terms. If you’re keen to experiment, we stock a variety of fibres, carders, combs, spindles and wheels—as well as a curated selection of yarns.

Keep learning, keep creating—and don’t hesitate to get in touch if you ever need help choosing the right tool or fibre for your next project. We’re always happy to help! 💚

From our hands to yours, The Kraftkolour Team 💛🧡❤️💜💙💚