Understanding Silk: Types, Weaves, and How to Dye Them
TLDR (Too Long, Didn't Read): Silk is a luxurious natural protein fibre prized for its shimmer, drape, and dyeing potential. Cultivated silk (Bombyx mori) is smooth and lustrous, while wild silks like Tussah, Eri, Muga, and Tusar offer unique textures and eco-friendly options. Silk takes vibrant colours beautifully with acid, reactive, and one-pot dyes, making it ideal for scarves, garments, and textile art. At Kraftkolour, our curated range of fabrics and fibres helps makers and artists create with confidence and ease.
Silk has captivated makers for thousands of years with its soft shimmer, elegant drape, and luxurious feel. At Kraftkolour, we love sharing not only beautiful silk fabrics, scarves, and fibres, but also insights into their unique qualities, so you can choose the perfect silk for your project.
A Brief History of Silk
Silk originated in China, with legends tracing its discovery back to Empress Hsi Ling Shi (referred to most commonly as Leizu) around 2640 BC. Fascinated by silkworms, she learned to reel silk from their cocoons and weave it into fabric. For over 3,000 years, China maintained a silk monopoly, and the craft eventually spread to Korea, Japan, India, Persia, and Europe.
According to legend, the Empress was sitting under a Mulberry Tree with a cup of tea when a cocoon dropped into her cup. As the tea softened the cocoon, she found that there was one 'end' and if pulled, it became a long, continuous thread. The Empress developed the first steps of sericulture (the cultivation of silkworms to produce silk), inventing the silk reel and then the first loom to create fabric. We have also read that her husband, Emperor Huang Di (the Yellow Emperor), is credited with creating the first silk loom. The legend honours the Empress as the first producer of silk fibre, crafting robes for her husband and earning her the titles “Goddess of the Silkworm” and "Silk Mother”.
Today, China, India, and Japan remain the largest producers of silk, with smaller production in Mexico and other regions.
Above: Monument to the 'Godess of Silk', Leizu, in Leizu Cultural Park in Yuan'an County, Hubei Province, China. Image.
Silk Terms Glossary
How Silk is Produced?
From Silkworm to Cocoon
Silk is produced by the silkworm (Bombyx mori), which spins a single continuous thread from a protein called fibroin, coated with a gummy substance called sericin. The worm uses a figure-eight motion with its head to wrap itself in a protective cocoon.
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Cultivated silk comes from silkworms raised on mulberry leaves.
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Wild silk (tussah) comes from silkworms in the wild, often feeding on oak or cherry leaves, producing darker, coarser fibres.
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Eri silk is harvested after the moth emerges, making it a cruelty-free option (also called “peace silk”).
From Cocoon to Yarn
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Reeling – Cocoons are softened in hot water to loosen sericin, and multiple filaments are combined and twisted to form a smooth, strong filament yarn (thrown silk).
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Spun silk – Short fibres from damaged or mature cocoons are spun like cotton or wool. It’s softer, warmer, and less lustrous than thrown silk.
Above: The two basic yarn structures that are available from silk: thrown silk yarn and spun silk yarn. From: Textiles for Modern Living by Gohl & Vilensky.
Types of Silk
There are several types of silk, each with its own texture, colour, and best uses for weaving, knitting, or dyeing. Each has unique characteristics that affect texture, lustre, colour, and suitability for different projects.
Environmental and Ethical Considerations
- Renewable fibre: Mulberry leaves support small farms, retain soil.
- Animal welfare: Peace silk (Eri) allows moths to emerge naturally.
- Labour: Provides economic benefits, particularly for women in silk-growing regions.
- Water & chemicals: Degumming and dyeing consume water and chemicals; responsible practices reduce impact.
Properties of Silk
Silk is a natural filament fibre with unique characteristics that make it prized for garments, scarves, and artistic projects. Its properties are influenced by the type of silk, the yarn, and the weave.
Kraftkolour Silk Range
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Scarves: Chiffon, Eri, Pongee, Habotai, Voile, Organza, Noil, Twill
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Fabrics: Margilan, Chiffon, Organza, Georgette, Pongee, Habotai, Twill, Satin, Dupioni, Crepe de Chine, Fuji, Noil, Khadi, Eri, Silk Blends and Velvet.
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Ribbon: Habotai silk available in multiple widths, for embellishments and Chiffon Bias ribbon.
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Fibre: Silk fibre, cocoons, mulberry silk brick, tops, wool-silk blends, alpaca-silk blends
Quick Reference: Kraftkolour Silk Fabric Range
Best Dyes for Silk
Silk absorbs acid, reactive, and many natural dyes beautifully. Filament silk reflects light for extra brilliance. Coarser fibres may appear darker when dyed. Here is our top 6 choices for dyeing silks:
Comparing Silk Fabrics: Yarn, Weave, and Weight in Action
We compared three of our silk fabrics to see how yarn type and weave affect the look, feel, and dye uptake:
Silk Noil
Notice the bumpy, textured surface of the Noil. The spun yarn and shorter fibres create a unique, tactile hand, perfect for casual or layered garments. The texture also subtly affects how dye is absorbed, giving a slightly muted, soft finish.
Silk Satin
Satin’s smooth, filament yarn gives it a glossy, wet-look shine. The basic weave lets light reflect evenly, enhancing its luxurious drape. Dyes appear vibrant and luminous, making it ideal for elegant garments and scarves.
Silk Twill
Twill combines filament yarn with a diagonal weave, creating a gentle surface texture. Less shiny than Satin but still smooth, Twill takes dye beautifully while showing subtle depth and dimension — great for structured garments or projects where texture matters.
By understanding how yarn type and weave interact, you can predict how your chosen fabric will drape, feel, and take dye. Even within the same silk type, these characteristics can dramatically change the outcome of your project!
Silk combines beauty, versatility, and craft potential. Understanding types, properties, and best dyeing practices empowers makers to create with confidence. At Kraftkolour, our curated silk fabrics and fibres are ready for your next project — whether painting, weaving, knitting, or creating textile art. Explore, experiment, and enjoy the magic of silk.
References:
- Textiles for Modern Living - EPG Gohl, L.D. Vilensky
- Textiles by Sara J Kadolph
- Fibre to Fabric - Australian edition - Griffin, Potter and Corbman
- Textiles - fibre to fabric by Bernard P. Corbman
- Textile Science - EPG Gohl, L.D. Vilensky
- Understanding Textiles by Billie J. Collier & Phyllis G. Tortora